woensdag 14 november 2012

Malawi

Shire river cruise at Liwonde N.P.
I looked forward to Malawi for a long time, being in Southern Africa was nice, but for me, Malawi enbodies the real, raw, black Africa that I enjoyed so much in west & central Africa, but in a nice and touristy setting. So far, it didn't disappoint. I came in via the Mozambiqan Tete corridor, which cost me 86 dollar for a one day crossing from Zimbabwe and spend 1 night at the lovely Doogles lodge in Blantyre. Prices here are affordable for the first time since DRC, cola for 0,5 euro or a half litre of Kutche Kutche beer for a euro.
First stop was Liwonde NP, where a boat trip on the Shire river reveiled an Africa from the documentaries, the riverbanks full of wildlife, all posing willingly for the camera's.
Then a few days were spend at Cape Mc Clear where for the first time in months, I saw some overland bikers arrive. Kai & Meike are driving the BMW's from Capetown to Hamburg in 6 months, and are only 6 weeks into the trip, so they will have to slow down. It was quickly decided that the slowing down would be done together through Malawi, leisurely following the lake northwards up to Tanzania.
First I had an appointment with an old friend, Tony Gahegan, who was my driving companion from Morocco to Mali, was in the capital, Lilongwe, so I spend 2 days in his company. It was good to meet up again and share stories and when I was there he finally sold his bike, so he now can get on to India, on his RTW (roundtheworld) trip. see www.tgon.co.uk
I found Meike & Kai again in Senga, where we had thre opportunity to go on the lake on a catamaran. Having sailed many years with my father I felt I was up for it, but after only half an hour, just as we passed out of sight behind a little island, I managed to capseize it and we soon found out, it wouldn't upright again and worse, it was sinking. The day before, a fisherman was eaten by a crocodile, they only recovered his head, and now we were in the water, holding on to a sinking boat. Luckily we were spotted by another little tourist boat, as Kai was pretty seasick by then. The cat was towed to shore and the damage added up to 2 ripped  sails and a hole in the hull, but we were alright, so it could have been worse I guess.
Next stop by the lake was one of the most picturesque of Africa so far, Makuzi beach, 50 km south of Nkatha bay. A little piece of paradise.
Chips & salad for 150 Kwatcha
Chain was too loose, easily fixed
Fat Monkeys Lodge in Cape Mc Clear
Painting the pannier of my bike
Sailing trip ending in a rescue
Kai & Meike on their BMW's

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